Buyer requesting 2 sample cones before opening Letter of Credit (LC). Buyer Spec: U% 13.5–14.5, IPI ≤4,200, RKM ≥17 cN/tex, CSP 2,500+, count CV ≤2.0. Actual production on Lot JA#913021: U% 16.7–17.7, IPI 4,661–5,820, RKM 14.3–14.8 (-14%), CSP NOT tested, count CV up to 2.51 (M22). Raw material mismatch: Buyer PI specifies BCI cotton while PKLM spec states PIMA. Action: Pull sample ONLY from cleaned frame M27 (IPI 4,661) and test complete Uster + Tensojet + CSP before courier dispatch.
HF/017 shipment balance due in 5 days. Zero CSP testing for past 16 days (promised CSP 1,800+). New lot L@95610: Promised IPI 4,500–5,500, but actual IPI is 5,748 - 8,482 (Frame M16 outlier at 8,482 with U 20.8). Frame M01 count CV is catastrophic at 6.18% (causes horizontal barré stripes after fabric dyeing). Action: Immediate wrap/CSP on L@95610, inspect M16 drafting rollers, and test M01 cone count before carton sealing.
Initial sample rejected by brand due to drop stitches and fabric holes (12 holes in 6.6 kg 20G fabric, 9 in 6 kg 24G). Buyer spec demands U 13.94, IPI 3,130, RKM 18.06, CSP 2,400. In-house yarn has 1,900–2,900 weak places. Action: Complete Tensojet weak place tests, autoconer splicer strength retention check, and run knitting trial on 1 cone before handing over.
11s C/L L@95511: Elongation dropped from 4.78% to 3.92/4.13%; weak places reached 1,032–1,274. Frame M10 running with 16.9 breaks/hr and 17 rogue spindles. 21s E/L L@95421: Weak places surged across all frames (M02: 401, M11: 216). M02/M11 thin places at ~260 due to drafting apron wear. Action: Verify cotton laydown twist and renew M02/M11 drafting aprons.
Frames M21/M22 (FC 24) and M29 (FC 22) overdue for cleaning (rule: ≤15-20). M28 and M22 S1 breaks spiked to 21.8 and 20.0 (+31% and +37%). Frame M30 running new 10s siro with FC 26, Count CV 4.17, and weak places up by +224%. Action: Complete full deep-clean on M21, M22, M29, M30 prior to Shantex production.
Frame M31 apron cradle spacer adjusted to 5 mm: IPI dropped from 18,800 to 15,600 (-17%) and weak places plunged from 420 to 202 (-52%). Confirms spacer control works. Frame M14 count CV recovered from 9.64% to 2.22%.
| Frame | Count / Lot | Count CV% | U% (CVm) | Thin (-50) | Thick (+50) | Neps (+200) | Total IPI | RKM (cN/tex) | Elong % | Weak Places | FC Clean | Diagnostics & Action Plan |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| U1 · M01 | 21s LL L@106721 |
1.56% | 6868.0% (4146.0%) | 551 | 0 | 0 | 551 | 17.36 | 5.87% | 700 | FC 13 | Controlled / Normal (FC: 13) |
| U1 · M02 | 21s LL L@106721 |
2.06% | 6783.0% (4131.5%) | 569 | 0 | 0 | 569 | 18.43 | 6.18% | 86 | FC 3 | Controlled / Normal (FC: 3) |
| U1 · M03 | 14 HC L@106314 |
2.62% | 6106.0% (3276.0%) | 403 | 0 | 0 | 403 | 16.91 | 4.9% | 139 | FC 15 | Controlled / Normal (FC: 15) |
| U1 · M04 | 21s EL L@106921 |
1.07% | 3707.5% (1707.5%) | 279 | 0 | 0 | 279 | 27.27 | 8.05% | 20 | FC 11 | Controlled / Normal (FC: 11) |
| U1 · M05 | 21s LC L@106321 |
1.9% | 7484.5% (4775.5%) | 459 | 0 | 0 | 459 | 15.73 | 4.46% | 1 | FC 0 | Low Elongation (4.46%) — optimize traveler weight |
| U1 · M06 | 21s LC L@106321 |
2.24% | 7169.0% (4379.0%) | 384 | 0 | 0 | 384 | 16.4 | 4.94% | 0 | FC 0 | Controlled / Normal (FC: 0) |
| U1 · M08 | 21s LC L@106321 |
8.59% | 6462.5% (3685.5%) | 261 | 0 | 0 | 261 | 15.73 | 4.51% | 3 | FC 0 | High Count CV% (8.59%) — inspect drafting & cone count |
| U1 · M09 | 21s LC L@106721 |
1.0% | 5958.0% (3235.0%) | 200 | 0 | 0 | 200 | 16.11 | 4.61% | 1 | FC 12 | Controlled / Normal (FC: 12) |
| U1 · M10 | 21s LC L@106321 |
1.35% | 7304.5% (4386.5%) | 317 | 0 | 0 | 317 | 15.91 | 4.6% | 1 | FC 9 | Controlled / Normal (FC: 9) |
| U1 · M11 | 21s LC L@107321 |
3.31% | 7337.0% (4550.5%) | 304 | 0 | 0 | 304 | 15.04 | 4.42% | 8 | FC 0 | High Count CV% (3.31%) — inspect drafting & cone count |
| U1 · M12 | 20s BAMBOO L@104920 |
0% | 0% (0%) | 0 | 0 | 0 | 0 | 21.54 | 14.88% | 1 | FC 0 | Controlled / Normal (FC: 0) |
| U1 · M13 | 20s BAMBOO JA#1012713 |
1.74% | 3900.0% (1509.5%) | 166 | 0 | 0 | 166 | 21.59 | 14.79% | 4 | FC 0 | Controlled / Normal (FC: 0) |
| U1 · M15 | 10 LLEV L@105610 |
1.52% | 5755.5% (2908.5%) | 707 | 0 | 0 | 707 | 10.83 | 6.58% | 3 | FC 24 | Low Tenacity (10.83 cN/tex) — check traveler & twist |
| U1 · M16 | 10 LLEV L@105610 |
2.37% | 6221.0% (3316.0%) | 1008 | 0 | 0 | 1,008 | 10.54 | 6.34% | 21 | FC 22 | Low Tenacity (10.54 cN/tex) — check traveler & twist |
| U1 · M17 | 21s EL L@106921 |
1.16% | 4140.5% (2009.0%) | 380 | 0 | 0 | 380 | 27.02 | 7.82% | 73 | FC 2 | Controlled / Normal (FC: 2) |
| U1 · M18 | 14 HC L@106314 |
1.19% | 5863.5% (3219.0%) | 356 | 0 | 0 | 356 | 16.66 | 5.02% | 203 | FC 1 | Controlled / Normal (FC: 1) |
| U1 · M19 | 21s LL L@106721 |
2.85% | 6821.0% (4031.5%) | 821 | 0 | 0 | 821 | 18.35 | 6.74% | 35 | FC 5 | Controlled / Normal (FC: 5) |
| U2 · M20 | 12s VL L@104920 |
2.12% | 147.5% (37.0%) | 263 | 0 | 0 | 263 | 14.11 | 10.54% | 178 | FC 0 | Low Tenacity (14.11 cN/tex) — check traveler & twist |
| U2 · M21 | 13s VL JA#1014012 |
1.26% | 3956.0% (1698.0%) | 473 | 0 | 0 | 473 | 16.4 | 12.13% | 6 | FC 9 | Controlled / Normal (FC: 9) |
| U2 · M22 | 13s CL JA#1013013 |
0.98% | 3403.0% (1188.0%) | 166 | 0 | 0 | 166 | 14.52 | 5.27% | 0 | FC 11 | Low Tenacity (14.52 cN/tex) — check traveler & twist |
| U2 · M23 | 13s CL J#A1013013 |
0% | 0% (0%) | 0 | 0 | 0 | 0 | 14.24 | 5.0% | 4 | FC 0 | Low Tenacity (14.24 cN/tex) — check traveler & twist |
| U2 · M24 | 12s CL JA1013012A |
1.38% | 2473.5% (751.0%) | 401 | 0 | 0 | 401 | 14.49 | 5.75% | 0 | FC 13 | Low Tenacity (14.49 cN/tex) — check traveler & twist |
| U2 · M25 | 12s CL JA1013012A |
2.48% | 3252.5% (1128.0%) | 403 | 0 | 0 | 403 | 14.63 | 5.66% | 3 | FC 24 | Low Tenacity (14.63 cN/tex) — check traveler & twist |
| U2 · M26 | 30.0s JA1014130S |
4.67% | 3670.5% (2830.0%) | 173 | 0 | 0 | 173 | 0 | 0% | 0 | FC 0 | High Count CV% (4.67%) — inspect drafting & cone count |
| U2 · M27 | 16s CL JA#1013016 |
1.5% | 3804.0% (1524.5%) | 141 | 0 | 0 | 141 | 14.76 | 4.87% | 0 | FC 4 | Low Tenacity (14.76 cN/tex) — check traveler & twist |
| U2 · M28 | 16s CL JA#1013016 |
0.64% | 3804.0% (1538.5%) | 163 | 0 | 0 | 163 | 14.53 | 4.84% | 0 | FC 14 | Low Tenacity (14.53 cN/tex) — check traveler & twist |
| U2 · M29 | 16s CL JA#1013016 |
0.9% | 4206.0% (1838.5%) | 126 | 0 | 0 | 126 | 14.18 | 4.5% | 0 | FC 6 | Low Tenacity (14.18 cN/tex) — check traveler & twist |
| U2 · M30 | 16s CL JA#1013016 |
1.8% | 4406.0% (1977.0%) | 235 | 0 | 0 | 235 | 14.26 | 4.62% | 1 | FC 2 | Low Tenacity (14.26 cN/tex) — check traveler & twist |
| U2 · M31 | 26 WLC JA#1013926SI |
1.15% | 7699.0% (4772.5%) | 189 | 0 | 0 | 189 | 16.83 | 4.19% | 97 | FC 5 | Low Elongation (4.19%) — optimize traveler weight |
| Parameter | Customer Agreed Spec | Shop Floor Actual Test | Gap / Difference | Audit Status |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Yarn Count | Ne 21/1 | Ne 21.0s (CV 0.90–2.51%) | M22 CV 2.51% > 2.0% | ATTENTION ⚠️ |
| Evenness U% (CVm%) | 13.5–14.5% (CVm 17–18%) | 16.66–17.67% (CVm 21.7–23.0%) | +2.9 points (+20% worse) | REJECT RISK ❌ |
| Thin Places (-50%) | 30–60 /km | 99–229 /km (Avg 168) | 2.8x higher than limit | REJECT RISK ❌ |
| Thick Places (+50%) | 1,200–1,600 /km | 2,025–2,452 /km (Avg 2,330) | +46% above limit | REJECT RISK ❌ |
| Neps (+200%) | 1,800–2,400 /km | 2,538–3,197 /km (Avg 2,870) | +20% above limit | REJECT RISK ❌ |
| Total IPI | ≤ 4,200 /km | 4,661–5,820 /km (Avg 5,368) | +28% above limit | REJECT RISK ❌ |
| Lea CSP | 2,500+ | Not Tested (Proxy ~2,194) | -12% shortfall | REJECT RISK ❌ |
| Tenacity (RKM) | ≥ 17.0 cN/tex | 14.33–14.81 cN/tex | -14% below spec | REJECT RISK ❌ |
| Raw Material Fiber | 100% PIMA ELS + Belgium Flax | SR Booking: BCI Cotton | Contract Spec Mismatch | ATTENTION ⚠️ |
Issue: Fabric drop stitches & holes during knitting (12 holes in 6.6kg 20G). High weak places and weak autoconer splices.
Issue: Cone-to-cone color shade variation and dyeing barré stripes. Frame-to-frame IPI varies from 5.7k to 8.5k, M01 count CV 6.18%.
Issue: Knots and weak slub breaks causing 70–96 loom stops on air-jet warp.
6 days of shift attendance data missing (Sept 22–27). Cannot correlate night-shift break surges with operator absenteeism.
Zero wrap/CSP tests since Sept 22; 16-day testing backlog on 10s Jamuna, and zero tests on Shantex 21s.
Frame M07 reported '0 breaks' across Shifts 2 and 3 — optical sensor is dead and maintenance missed it.
Frame M05 switched to 12s on Sept 27, but lab continued running it under 21s test profile.